traditions。 In the house is kept an ox's horn； hollowed so as to
hold perhaps two quarts； which the heir of Macleod was expected to
swallow at one draught； as a test of his manhood； before he was
permitted to bear arms； or could claim a seat among the men。 It is
held that the return of the Laird to Dunvegan； after any
considerable absence； produces a plentiful capture of herrings； and
that； if any woman crosses the water to the opposite Island； the
herrings will desert the coast。 Boetius tells the same of some
other place。 This tradition is not uniform。 Some hold that no
woman may pass； and others that none may pass but a Macleod。
Among other guests； which the hospitality of Dunvegan brought to
the table； a visit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a small island
south of Sky； of which the proper name is Muack； which signifies
swine。 It is commonly called Muck； which the proprietor not
liking； has endeavoured； without effect； to change to Monk。 It is
usual to call gentlemen in Scotland by the name of their
possessions； as Raasay； Bernera； Loch Buy； a practice necessary in
countries inhabited by clans； where all that live in the same
territory have one name； and must be therefore discriminated by
some addition。 This gentleman； whose name； I think； is Maclean；
should be regularly called Muck； but the appellation； which he
thinks too coarse for his Island； he would like still less for
himself； and he is therefore addressed by the title of； Isle of
Muck。
This little Island； however it be named； is of considerable value。
It is two English miles long； and three quarters of a mile broad；
and consequently contains only nine hundred and sixty English
acres。 It is chiefly arable。 Half of this little dominion the
Laird retains in his own hand； and on the other half； live one
hundred and sixty persons； who pay their rent by exported corn。
What rent they pay； we were not told； and could not decently
inquire。 The proportion of the people to the land is such； as the
most fertile countries do not commonly maintain。
The Laird having all his people under his immediate view； seems to
be very attentive to their happiness。 The devastation of the
small…pox； when it visits places where it comes seldom； is well
known。 He has disarmed it of its terrour at Muack； by inoculating
eighty of his people。 The expence was two shillings and sixpence a
head。 Many trades they cannot have among them； but upon occasion；
he fetches a smith from the Isle of Egg； and has a tailor from the
main land； six times a year。 This island well deserved to be seen；
but the Laird's absence left us no opportunity。
Every inhabited island has its appendant and subordinate islets。
Muck； however small； has yet others smaller about it； one of which
has only ground sufficient to afford pasture for three wethers。
At Dunvegan I had tasted lotus； and was in danger of forgetting
that I was ever to depart； till Mr。 Boswell sagely reproached me
with my sluggishness and softness。 I had no very forcible defence
to make； and we agreed to pursue our journey。 Macleod accompanied
us to Ulinish； where we were entertained by the sheriff of the
Island。
ULINISH
Mr。 Macqueen travelled with us； and directed our attention to all
that was worthy of observation。 With him we went to see an ancient
building； called a dun or borough。 It was a circular inclosure；
about forty…two feet in diameter； walled round with loose stones；
perhaps to the height of nine feet。 The walls were very thick；
diminishing a little toward the top； and though in these countries；
stone is not brought far； must have been raised with much labour。
Within the great circle were several smaller rounds of wall； which
formed distinct apartments。 Its date； and its use are unknown。
Some suppose it the original seat of the chiefs of the Macleods。
Mr。 Macqueen thought it a Danish fort。
The entrance is covered with flat stones； and is narrow； because it
was necessary that the stones which lie over it； should reach from
one wall to the other； yet； strait as the passage is； they seem
heavier than could have been placed where they now lie； by the
naked strength of as many men as might stand about them。 They were
probably raised by putting long pieces of wood under them； to which
the action of a long line of lifters might be applied。 Savages； in
all countries； have patience proportionate to their unskilfulness；
and are content to attain their end by very tedious methods。
If it was ever roofed； it might once have been a dwelling； but as
there is no provision for water； it could not have been a fortress。
In Sky； as in every other place； there is an ambition of exalting
whatever has survived memory； to some important use； and referring
it to very remote ages。 I am inclined to suspect； that in lawless
times； when the inhabitants of every mountain stole the cattle of
their neighbour； these inclosures were used to secure the herds and
flocks in the night。 When they were driven within the wall； they
might be easily watched； and defended as long as could be needful；
for the robbers durst not wait till the injured clan should find
them in the morning。
The interior inclosures； if the whole building were once a house；
were the chambers of the chief inhabitants。 If it was a place of
security for cattle； they were probably the shelters of the
keepers。
From the Dun we were conducted to another place of security； a cave
carried a great way under ground； which had been discovered by
digging after a fox。 These caves； of which many have been found；
and many probably remain concealed； are formed； I believe； commonly
by taking advantage of a hollow； where banks or rocks rise on
either side。 If no such place can be found； the ground must be cut
away。 The walls are made by piling stones against the earth； on
either side。 It is then roofed by larger stones laid across the
cavern； which therefore cannot be wide。 Over the roof； turfs were
placed； and grass was suffered to grow； and the mouth was concealed
by bushes； or some other cover。
These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude
inhabitants； of which； however； I am by no means persuaded。 This
was so low； that no man could stand upright in it。 By their
construction they are all so narrow； that two can never pass along
them together； and being subterraneous； they must be always damp。
They are not the work of an age much ruder than the present； for
they are formed with as much art as the construction of a common
hut requires。 I imagine them to have been places only of
occasional use； in which the Islander； upon a sudden alarm； hid his
utensils； or his cloaths； and perhaps sometimes his wife and
children。
This cave we entered； but could not proceed the whole length； and
went away without knowing how far it was carried。 For this
omission we shall be blamed； as we perhaps have blamed other
travellers； but the day was rainy； and the ground was damp。 We had
with us neither spades nor pickaxes； and if love of ease surmounted
our desire of knowledge； the offence has not the invidiousness of
singularity。
Edifices； either standing or ruined； are the chief records of an
illiterate nation。 In some part of this journey； at no great
distance from our way； stood a shattered fortress； of which the
learned minister； to whose communication we are much indebted； gave
us an account。
Those； said he； are the walls of a place of refuge； built in the
time of James the Sixth； by Hugh Macdonald； who was next heir to
the dignity and fortune of his chief。 Hugh； being so near his
wish； was impatient of delay； and had art and influence sufficient
to engage several gentlemen in a plot against the Laird's life。
Something must be stipulated on both sides； for they would not dip
their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement。 The compact
was formerly written； signed by the conspirators； and placed in the
hands of one Macleod。
It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover； who； not
having ready money； gave him a bond for payment。 The debt was
discharged； and the bond re…demanded； which Macleod； who could not
read； intending to put into his hands； gave him the conspiracy。
The drover； when he had read the paper； delivered it privately to
Macdonald； who； being thus informed of his danger； called his
friends together； and provided for his safety。 He made a public
feast； and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates； placed
each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity。 The
compact of conspiracy was then shewn； and every man confronted with
his own name。 Macdonald acted with great moderation。 He upbraided
Hugh； both with disloyalty and ingratitude； but told the rest； that
he considered them as men deluded and misinformed。 Hugh was sworn
to fidelity； and dismissed with his companions； but he was not
generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity； and finding no longer
any countenance among the gentlemen； endeavoured to execute the
same design by meaner hands。 In this practice he was detected；
taken to Macdonald's castle； and imprisoned in the dungeon。 When
he was hungry； they let down a plentiful meal of salted meat； and
when； after his repast； he called for drink； conveyed to him a
covered cup； which； when he lifted the lid； he found empty。 From
that time they visited him no more； but left him to perish in
solitude and darkness。
We were then told of a cavern by the sea…side； remarkable for the
powerful reverberation of sounds。 After dinner we took a boat； to
explore this curious cavity。 The boatmen； who seemed to be of a
rank above that of common drudges； inquired who the strangers were；
and being told we came one from Scotland； and the other from
England； asked if the Englishman could recount a long genealogy。
What answer was given them； the conversation being in Erse； I was
not much inclined to examine。
They expected no good event of the voyage； for one of them declared
that he heard the cry of an English ghost。 This omen I was not
told till after our return； and therefore cannot claim the dignity
of despising it。
The sea was smooth。 We never left the shore； and came with