of despising it。
The sea was smooth。 We never left the shore； and came without any
disaster to the cavern； which we found rugged and misshapen； about
one hundred and eighty feet long； thirty wide in the broadest part；
and in the loftiest； as we guessed； about thirty high。 It was now
dry； but at high water the sea rises in it near six feet。 Here I
saw what I had never seen before； limpets and mussels in their
natural state。 But； as a new testimony to the veracity of common
fame； here was no echo to be heard。
We then walked through a natural arch in the rock； which might have
pleased us by its novelty； had the stones； which incumbered our
feet； given us leisure to consider it。 We were shown the gummy
seed of the kelp； that fastens itself to a stone； from which it
grows into a strong stalk。
In our return； we found a little boy upon the point of rock；
catching with his angle； a supper for the family。 We rowed up to
him； and borrowed his rod； with which Mr。 Boswell caught a cuddy。
The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name。 It
is not much bigger than a gudgeon； but is of great use in these
Islands； as it affords the lower people both food； and oil for
their lamps。 Cuddies are so abundant； at sometimes of the year；
that they are caught like whitebait in the Thames； only by dipping
a basket and drawing it back。
If it were always practicable to fish； these Islands could never be
in much danger from famine； but unhappily in the winter； when other
provision fails； the seas are commonly too rough for nets； or
boats。
TALISKER IN SKY
From Ulinish； our next stage was to Talisker； the house of colonel
Macleod； an officer in the Dutch service； who； in this time of
universal peace； has for several years been permitted to be absent
from his regiment。 Having been bred to physick； he is consequently
a scholar； and his lady； by accompanying him in his different
places of residence； is become skilful in several languages。
Talisker is the place beyond all that I have seen； from which the
gay and the jovial seem utterly excluded； and where the hermit
might expect to grow old in meditation； without possibility of
disturbance or interruption。 It is situated very near the sea； but
upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is driven by a
tempest on the rocks。 Towards the land are lofty hills streaming
with water…falls。 The garden is sheltered by firs or pines； which
grow there so prosperously； that some； which the present inhabitant
planted； are very high and thick。
At this place we very happily met Mr。 Donald Maclean； a young
gentleman； the eldest son of the Laird of Col； heir to a very great
extent of land； and so desirous of improving his inheritance； that
he spent a considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire；
and Hampshire； to learn their practice。 He worked with his own
hands at the principal operations of agriculture； that he might not
deceive himself by a false opinion of skill； which； if he should
find it deficient at home； he had no means of completing。 If the
world has agreed to praise the travels and manual labours of the
Czar of Muscovy； let Col have his share of the like applause； in
the proportion of his dominions to the empire of Russia。
This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky； and when
he was weary with following his game； repaired for lodging to
Talisker。 At night he missed one of his dogs； and when he went to
seek him in the morning； found two eagles feeding on his carcass。
Col； for he must be named by his possessions； hearing that our
intention was to visit Jona； offered to conduct us to his chief；
Sir Allan Maclean； who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth； and would
readily find us a convenient passage。 From this time was formed an
acquaintance； which being begun by kindness； was accidentally
continued by constraint； we derived much pleasure from it； and I
hope have given him no reason to repent it。
The weather was now almost one continued storm； and we were to
snatch some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull； the third
Island of the Hebrides； lying about a degree south of Sky； whence
we might easily find our way to Inch Kenneth； where Sir Allan
Maclean resided； and afterward to Jona。
For this purpose； the most commodious station that we could take
was Armidel； which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a
gentleman； who lived there as his factor or steward。
In our way to Armidel was Coriatachan； where we had already been；
and to which therefore we were very willing to return。 We staid
however so long at Talisker； that a great part of our journey was
performed in the gloom of the evening。 In travelling even thus
almost without light thro' naked solitude； when there is a guide
whose conduct may be trusted； a mind not naturally too much
disposed to fear； may preserve some degree of cheerfulness； but
what must be the solicitude of him who should be wandering； among
the craggs and hollows； benighted； ignorant； and alone？
The fictions of the Gothick romances were not so remote from
credibility as they are now thought。 In the full prevalence of the
feudal institution； when violence desolated the world； and every
baron lived in a fortress； forests and castles were regularly
succeeded by each other； and the adventurer might very suddenly
pass from the gloom of woods； or the ruggedness of moors； to seats
of plenty； gaiety； and magnificence。 Whatever is imaged in the
wildest tale； if giants； dragons； and enchantment be excepted；
would be felt by him； who； wandering in the mountains without a
guide； or upon the sea without a pilot； should be carried amidst
his terror and uncertainty； to the hospitality and elegance of
Raasay or Dunvegan。
To Coriatachan at last we came； and found ourselves welcomed as
before。 Here we staid two days； and made such inquiries as
curiosity suggested。 The house was filled with company； among whom
Mr。 Macpherson and his sister distinguished themselves by their
politeness and accomplishments。 By him we were invited to Ostig； a
house not far from Armidel； where we might easily hear of a boat；
when the weather would suffer us to leave the Island。
OSTIG IN SKY
At Ostig； of which Mr。 Macpherson is minister； we were entertained
for some days； then removed to Armidel； where we finished our
observations on the island of Sky。
As this Island lies in the fifty…seventh degree； the air cannot be
supposed to have much warmth。 The long continuance of the sun
above the horizon； does indeed sometimes produce great heat in
northern latitudes； but this can only happen in sheltered places；
where the atmosphere is to a certain degree stagnant； and the same
mass of air continues to receive for many hours the rays of the
sun； and the vapours of the earth。 Sky lies open on the west and
north to a vast extent of ocean； and is cooled in the summer by
perpetual ventilation； but by the same blasts is kept warm in
winter。 Their weather is not pleasing。 Half the year is deluged
with rain。 From the autumnal to the vernal equinox； a dry day is
hardly known； except when the showers are suspended by a tempest。
Under such skies can be expected no great exuberance of vegetation。
Their winter overtakes their summer； and their harvest lies upon
the ground drenched with rain。 The autumn struggles hard to
produce some of our early fruits。 I gathered gooseberries in
September； but they were small； and the husk was thick。
Their winter is seldom such as puts a full stop to the growth of
plants； or reduces the cattle to live wholly on the surplusage of
the summer。 In the year Seventy…one they had a severe season；
remembered by the name of the Black Spring； from which the island
has not yet recovered。 The snow lay long upon the ground； a
calamity hardly known before。 Part of their cattle died for want；
part were unseasonably sold to buy sustenance for the owners； and；
what I have not read or heard of before； the kine that survived
were so emaciated and dispirited； that they did not require the
male at the usual time。 Many of the roebucks perished。
The soil； as in other countries； has its diversities。 In some
parts there is only a thin layer of earth spread upon a rock； which
bears nothing but short brown heath； and perhaps is not generally
capable of any better product。 There are many bogs or mosses of
greater or less extent； where the soil cannot be supposed to want
depth； though it is too wet for the plow。 But we did not observe
in these any aquatick plants。 The vallies and the mountains are
alike darkened with heath。 Some grass； however； grows here and
there； and some happier spots of earth are capable of tillage。
Their agriculture is laborious； and perhaps rather feeble than
unskilful。 Their chief manure is seaweed； which； when they lay it
to rot upon the field； gives them a better crop than those of the
Highlands。 They heap sea shells upon the dunghill； which in time
moulder into a fertilising substance。 When they find a vein of
earth where they cannot use it； they dig it up； and add it to the
mould of a more commodious place。
Their corn grounds often lie in such intricacies among the craggs；
that there is no room for the action of a team and plow。 The soil
is then turned up by manual labour； with an instrument called a
crooked spade； of a form and weight which to me appeared very
incommodious； and would perhaps be soon improved in a country where
workmen could be easily found and easily paid。 It has a narrow
blade of iron fixed to a long and heavy piece of wood； which must
have； about a foot and a half above the iron； a knee or flexure
with the angle downwards。 When the farmer encounters a stone which
is the great impediment of his operations； he drives the blade
under it； and bringing the knee or angle to the ground； has in the
long handle a very forcible lever。
According to the different mode of tillage； farms are distinguished
into long land and short land。 Long land is that which affords
room for a plow； and short land is turned up by the spade。
The grain which they commit to the furrows thus tediously formed；
is either oats or barley。 They d