was familiar to himself； he did not suppose unknown to others； nor
imagined that he could give pleasure by telling that of which it
was； in his little country； impossible to be ignorant。
What he has neglected cannot now be performed。 In nations； where
there is hardly the use of letters； what is once out of sight is
lost for ever。 They think but little； and of their few thoughts；
none are wasted on the past； in which they are neither interested
by fear nor hope。 Their only registers are stated observances and
practical representations。 For this reason an age of ignorance is
an age of ceremony。 Pageants； and processions； and commemorations；
gradually shrink away； as better methods come into use of recording
events； and preserving rights。
It is not only in Raasay that the chapel is unroofed and useless；
through the few islands which we visited； we neither saw nor heard
of any house of prayer； except in Sky； that was not in ruins。 The
malignant influence of Calvinism has blasted ceremony and decency
together； and if the remembrance of papal superstition is
obliterated； the monuments of papal piety are likewise effaced。
It has been； for many years； popular to talk of the lazy devotion
of the Romish clergy； over the sleepy laziness of men that erected
churches； we may indulge our superiority with a new triumph； by
comparing it with the fervid activity of those who suffer them to
fall。
Of the destruction of churches； the decay of religion must in time
be the consequence； for while the publick acts of the ministry are
now performed in houses； a very small number can be present； and as
the greater part of the Islanders make no use of books； all must
necessarily live in total ignorance who want the opportunity of
vocal instruction。
From these remains of ancient sanctity； which are every where to be
found； it has been conjectured； that； for the last two centuries；
the inhabitants of the Islands have decreased in number。 This
argument； which supposes that the churches have been suffered to
fall； only because they were no longer necessary； would have some
force； if the houses of worship still remaining were sufficient for
the people。 But since they have now no churches at all； these
venerable fragments do not prove the people of former times to have
been more numerous； but to have been more devout。 If the
inhabitants were doubled with their present principles； it appears
not that any provision for publick worship would be made。 Where
the religion of a country enforces consecrated buildings； the
number of those buildings may be supposed to afford some
indication； however uncertain； of the populousness of the place；
but where by a change of manners a nation is contented to live
without them； their decay implies no diminution of inhabitants。
Some of these dilapidations are said to be found in islands now
uninhabited； but I doubt whether we can thence infer that they were
ever peopled。 The religion of the middle age； is well known to
have placed too much hope in lonely austerities。 Voluntary
solitude was the great act of propitiation； by which crimes were
effaced； and conscience was appeased； it is therefore not unlikely；
that oratories were often built in places where retirement was sure
to have no disturbance。
Raasay has little that can detain a traveller； except the Laird and
his family； but their power wants no auxiliaries。 Such a seat of
hospitality； amidst the winds and waters； fills the imagination
with a delightful contrariety of images。 Without is the rough
ocean and the rocky land； the beating billows and the howling
storm： within is plenty and elegance； beauty and gaiety； the song
and the dance。 In Raasay； if I could have found an Ulysses； I had
fancied a Phoeacia。
DUNVEGAN
At Raasay； by good fortune； Macleod； so the chief of the clan is
called； was paying a visit； and by him we were invited to his seat
at Dunvegan。 Raasay has a stout boat； built in Norway； in which；
with six oars； he conveyed us back to Sky。 We landed at Port Re；
so called； because James the Fifth of Scotland； who had curiosity
to visit the Islands； came into it。 The port is made by an inlet
of the sea； deep and narrow； where a ship lay waiting to dispeople
Sky； by carrying the natives away to America。
In coasting Sky； we passed by the cavern in which it was the
custom； as Martin relates； to catch birds in the night； by making a
fire at the entrance。 This practice is disused； for the birds； as
is known often to happen； have changed their haunts。
Here we dined at a publick house； I believe the only inn of the
island； and having mounted our horses； travelled in the manner
already described； till we came to Kingsborough； a place
distinguished by that name； because the King lodged here when he
landed at Port Re。 We were entertained with the usual hospitality
by Mr。 Macdonald and his lady； Flora Macdonald； a name that will be
mentioned in history； and if courage and fidelity be virtues；
mentioned with honour。 She is a woman of middle stature； soft
features； gentle manners； and elegant presence。
In the morning we sent our horses round a promontory to meet us；
and spared ourselves part of the day's fatigue； by crossing an arm
of the sea。 We had at last some difficulty in coming to Dunvegan；
for our way led over an extensive moor； where every step was to be
taken with caution； and we were often obliged to alight； because
the ground could not be trusted。 In travelling this watery flat； I
perceived that it had a visible declivity； and might without much
expence or difficulty be drained。 But difficulty and expence are
relative terms； which have different meanings in different places。
To Dunvegan we came； very willing to be at rest； and found our
fatigue amply recompensed by our reception。 Lady Macleod； who had
lived many years in England； was newly come hither with her son and
four daughters； who knew all the arts of southern elegance； and all
the modes of English economy。 Here therefore we settled； and did
not spoil the present hour with thoughts of departure。
Dunvegan is a rocky prominence； that juts out into a bay； on the
west side of Sky。 The house； which is the principal seat of
Macleod； is partly old and partly modern； it is built upon the
rock； and looks upon the water。 It forms two sides of a small
square： on the third side is the skeleton of a castle of unknown
antiquity； supposed to have been a Norwegian fortress； when the
Danes were masters of the Islands。 It is so nearly entire； that it
might have easily been made habitable； were there not an ominous
tradition in the family； that the owner shall not long outlive the
reparation。 The grandfather of the present Laird； in defiance of
prediction； began the work； but desisted in a little time； and
applied his money to worse uses。
As the inhabitants of the Hebrides lived； for many ages； in
continual expectation of hostilities； the chief of every clan
resided in a fortress。 This house was accessible only from the
water； till the last possessor opened an entrance by stairs upon
the land。
They had formerly reason to be afraid； not only of declared wars
and authorized invaders； or of roving pirates； which； in the
northern seas； must have been very common； but of inroads and
insults from rival clans； who； in the plenitude of feudal
independence； asked no leave of their Sovereign to make war on one
another。 Sky has been ravaged by a feud between the two mighty
powers of Macdonald and Macleod。 Macdonald having married a
Macleod upon some discontent dismissed her； perhaps because she had
brought him no children。 Before the reign of James the Fifth； a
Highland Laird made a trial of his wife for a certain time； and if
she did not please him； he was then at liberty to send her away。
This however must always have offended； and Macleod resenting the
injury； whatever were its circumstances； declared； that the wedding
had been solemnized without a bonfire； but that the separation
should be better illuminated； and raising a little army； set fire
to the territories of Macdonald； who returned the visit； and
prevailed。
Another story may show the disorderly state of insular
neighbourhood。 The inhabitants of the Isle of Egg； meeting a boat
manned by Macleods； tied the crew hand and foot； and set them a…
drift。 Macleod landed upon Egg； and demanded the offenders； but
the inhabitants refusing to surrender them； retreated to a cavern；
into which they thought their enemies unlikely to follow them。
Macleod choked them with smoke； and left them lying dead by
families as they stood。
Here the violence of the weather confined us for some time； not at
all to our discontent or inconvenience。 We would indeed very
willingly have visited the Islands； which might be seen from the
house scattered in the sea； and I was particularly desirous to have
viewed Isay； but the storms did not permit us to launch a boat； and
we were condemned to listen in idleness to the wind； except when we
were better engaged by listening to the ladies。
We had here more wind than waves； and suffered the severity of a
tempest； without enjoying its magnificence。 The sea being broken
by the multitude of islands； does not roar with so much noise； nor
beat the shore with such foamy violence； as I have remarked on the
coast of Sussex。 Though； while I was in the Hebrides； the wind was
extremely turbulent； I never saw very high billows。
The country about Dunvegan is rough and barren。 There are no
trees； except in the orchard； which is a low sheltered spot
surrounded with a wall。
When this house was intended to sustain a siege； a well was made in
the court； by boring the rock downwards； till water was found；
which though so near to the sea； I have not heard mentioned as
brackish； though it has some hardness； or other qualities； which
make it less fit for use； and the family is now better supplied
from a stream； which runs by the rock； from two pleasing water…
falls。
Here we saw some traces of former manners； and heard some standing
traditions。 In the house is kept an ox's horn； hollowed so as to
hold perhaps two quarts； which the heir of Macleod was ex