north america-2- 第20部分

itherto　fought　throughout　the　war。　　Here；　however；　had　been　an　actual　victory；　and；　it　was　not　surprising　that　in　Kentucky　loyal　men　should　rejoice　greatly；　and　begin　to　hope　that　the　Confederates　would　be　beaten　out　of　the　State。　　Unfortunately；　however；　General　Zollicoffer's　army　had　only　been　an　offshoot　from　the　main　rebel　army　in　Kentucky。　　Buell；　commanding　the　Federal　troops　at　Louisville；　and　Sydney　Johnston；　the　Confederate　general；　at　Bowling　Green；　as　yet　remained　opposite　to　each　other；　and　the　work　was　still　to　be　done。　I　visited　the　little　towns　of　Lexington　and　Frankfort；　in　Kentucky。　At　the　former　I　found　in　the　hotel　to　which　I　went　seventy…five　teamsters　belonging　to　the　army。　　They　were　hanging　about　the　great　hall　when　I　entered；　and　clustering　round　the　stove　in　the　middle　of　the　chamber；　a　dirty；　rough；　quaint　set　of　men；　clothed　in　a　wonderful　variety　of　garbs；　but　not　disorderly　or　loud。　　The　landlord　apologized　for　their　presence；　alleging　that　other　accommodation　could　not　be　found　for　them　in　the　town。　　He　received；　he　said；　a　dollar　a　day　for　feeding　them；　and　for　supplying　them　with　a　place　in　which　they　could　lie　down。　　It　did　not　pay　him；　but　what　could　he　do？　　Such　an　apology　from　an　American　landlord　was　in　itself　a　surprising　fact。　　Such　high　functionaries　are；　as　a　rule；　men　inclined　to　tell　a　traveler　that　if　he　does　not　like　the　guests　among　whom　he　finds　himself；　he　may　go　elsewhere。　　But　this　landlord　had　as　yet　filled　the　place　for　not　more　than　two　or　three　weeks；　and　was　unused　to　the　dignity　of　his　position。　　While　I　was　at　supper；　the　seventy…five　teamsters　were　summoned　into　the　common　eating…room　by　a　loud　gong；　and　sat　down　to　their　meal　at　the　public　table。　　They　were　very　dirty；　I　doubt　whether　I　ever　saw　dirtier　men；　but　they　were　orderly　and　well　behaved；　and　but　for　their　extreme　dirt　might　have　passed　as　the　ordinary　occupants　of　a　well…　filled　hotel　in　the　West。　　Such　men；　in　the　States；　are　less　clumsy　with　their　knives　and　forks；　less　astray　in　an　unused　position；　more　intelligent　in　adapting　themselves　to　a　new　life　than　are　Englishmen　of　the　same　rank。　　It　is　always　the　same　story。　　With　us　there　is　no　level　of　society。　　Men　stand　on　a　long　staircase；　but　the　crowd　congregates　near　the　bottom；　and　the　lower　steps　are　very　broad。　　In　America　men　stand　upon　a　common　platform；　but　the　platform　is　raised　above　the　ground；　though　it　does　not　approach　in　height　the　top　of　our　staircase。　　If　we　take　the　average　altitude　in　the　two　countries；　we　shall　find　that　the　American　heads　are　the　more　elevated　of　the　two。　　I　conceived　rather　an　affection　for　those　dirty　teamsters；　they　answered　me　civilly　when　I　spoke　to　them；　and　sat　in　quietness；　smoking　their　pipes；　with　a　dull　and　dirty　but　orderly　demeanor。　The　country　about　Lexington　is　called　the　Blue　Grass　Region；　and　boasts　itself　as　of　peculiar　fecundity　in　the　matter　of　pasturage。　Why　the　grass　is　called　blue；　or　in　what　way　or　at　what　period　it　becomes　blue；　I　did　not　learn；　but　the　country　is　very　lovely　and　very　fertile。　　Between　Lexington　and　Frankfort　a　large　stock　farm；　extending　over　three　thousand　acres；　is　kept　by　a　gentleman　who　is　very　well　known　as　a　breeder　of　horses；　cattle；　and　sheep。　　He　has　spent　much　money　on　it；　and　is　making　for　himself　a　Kentucky　elysium。　　He　was　kind　enough　to　entertain　me　for　awhile；　and　showed　me　something　of　country　life　in　Kentucky。　　A　farm　in　that　part　of　the　State　depends；　and　must　depend；　chiefly　on　slave　labor。　　The　slaves　are　a　material　part　of　the　estate；　and　as　they　are　regarded　by　the　law　as　real　propertybeing　actually　adstricti　glebaean　inheritor　of　land　has　no　alternative　but　to　keep　them。　　A　gentleman　in　Kentucky　does　not　sell　his　slaves。　　To　do　so　is　considered　to　be　low　and　mean；　and　is　opposed　to　the　aristocratic　traditions　of　the　country。　　A　man　who　does　so　willingly；　puts　himself　beyond　the　pale　of　good　fellowship　with　his　neighbors。　　A　sale　of　slaves　is　regarded　as　a　sign　almost　of　bankruptcy。　　If　a　man　cannot　pay　his　debts；　his　creditors　can　step　in　and　sell　his　slaves；　but　he　does　not　himself　make　the　sale。　　When　a　man　owns　more　slaves　than　he　needs；　he　hires　them　out　by　the　year；　and　when　he　requires　more　than　he　owns；　he　takes　them　on　hire　by　the　year。　　Care　is　taken　in　such　hirings　not　to　remove　a　married　man　away　from　his　home。　　The　price　paid　for　a　negro's　labor　at　the　time　of　my　visit　was　about　a　hundred　dollars；　or　twenty　pounds　for　the　year；　but　this　price　was　then　extremely　low　in　consequence　of　the　war　disturbances。　　The　usual　price　had　been　about　fifty　or　sixty　per　cent。　above　this。　　The　man　who　takes　the　negro　on　hire　feeds　him；　clothes　him；　provides　him　with　a　bed；　and　supplies　him　with　medical　attendance。　　I　went　into　some　of　their　cottages　on　the　estate　which　I　visited；　and　was　not　in　the　least　surprised　to　find　them　preferable　in　size；　furniture；　and　all　material　comforts　to　the　dwellings　of　most　of　our　own　agricultural　laborers。　　Any　comparison　between　the　material　comfort　of　a　Kentucky　slave　and　an　English　ditcher　and　delver　would　be　preposterous。　　The　Kentucky　slave　never　wants　for　clothing　fitted　to　the　weather。　　He　eats　meat　twice　a　day；　and　has　three　good　meals；　he　knows　no　limit　but　his　own　appetite；　his　work　is　light；　he　has　many　varieties　of　amusement；　he　has　instant　medical　assistance　at　all　periods　of　necessity　for　himself；　his　wife；　and　his　children。　　Of　course　he　pays　no　rent；　fears　no　baker；　and　knows　no　hunger。　　I　would　not　have　it　supposed　that　I　conceive　slavery　with　all　these　comforts　to　be　equal　to　freedom　without　them；　nor　do　I　conceive　that　the　negro　can　be　made　equal　to　the　white　man。　　But　in　discussing　the　condition　of　the　negro；　it　is　necessary　that　we　should　understand　what　are　the　advantages　of　which　abolition　would　deprive　him；　and　in　what　condition　he　has　been　placed　by　the　daily　receipt　of　such　advantages。　　If　a　negro　slave　wants　new　shoes；　he　asks　for　them；　and　receives　them；　with　the　undoubting　simplicity　of　a　child。　　Such　a　state　of　things　has　its　picturesquely　patriarchal　side；　but　what　would　be　the　state　of　such　a　man　if　he　were　emancipated　to…morrow？　The　natural　beauty　of　the　place　which　I　was　visiting　was　very　great。　The　trees　were　fine　and　well　scattered　over　the　large；　park…like　pastures；　and　the　ground　was　broken　on　every　side　into　hills。　　There　was　perhaps　too　much　timber；　but　my　friend　seemed　to　think　that　that　fault　would　find　a　natural　remedy　only　too　quickly。　　〃I　do　not　like　to　cut　down　trees　if　I　can　help　it；〃　he　said。　　After　that　I　need　not　say　that　my　host　was　quite　as　much　an　Englishman　as　an　American。　　To　the　purely　American　farmer　a　tree　is　simply　an　enemy　to　be　trodden　under　foot；　and　buried　underground；　or　reduced　to　ashes　and　thrown　to　the　winds　with　what　most　economical　dispatch　may　be　possible。　　If　water　had　been　added　to　the　landscape　here　it　would　have　been　perfect；　regarding　it　as　ordinary　English　park…scenery。　　But　the　little　rivers　at　this　place　have　a　dirty　trick　of　burying　themselves　under　the　ground。　　They　go　down　suddenly　into　holes；　disappearing　from　the　upper　air；　and　then　come　up　again　at　the　distance　of　perhaps　half　a　mile。　　Unfortunately　their　periods　of　seclusion　are　more　prolonged　than　those　of　their　upper…air　distance。　　There　were　three　or　four　such　ascents　and　descents　about　the　place。　My　host　was　a　breeder　of　race…horses；　and　had　imported　sires　from　England；　of　sheep　also；　and　had　imported　famous　rams；　of　cattle　too；　and　was　great　in　bulls。　　He　was　very　loud　in　praise　of　Kentucky　and　its　attractions；　if　only　this　war　could　be　brought　to　an　end。　　But　I　could　not　obtain　from　him　an　assurance　that　the　speculation　in　which　he　was　engaged　had　been　profitable。　　Ornamental　farming　in　England　is　a　very　pretty　amusement　for　a　wealthy　man；　but　I　fancywithout　intending　any　slight　on　Mr。　Mechithat　the　amusement　is　expensive。　I　believe　that　the　same　thing　may　be　said　of　it　in　a　slave　State。　Frankfort　is　the　capital　of　Kentucky；　and　is　as　quietly　dull　a　little　town　as　I　ever　entered。　　It　is　on　the　River　Kentucky；　and　as　the　grounds　about　it　on　every　side　rise　in　wooded　hills；　it　is　a　very　pretty　place。　　In　January　it　was　very　pretty；　but　in　summer　it　must　be　lovely。　　I　was　taken　up　to　the　cemetery　there　by　a　path　along　the　river；　and　am　inclined　to　say　that　it　is　the　sweetest　resting…place　for　the　dead　that　I　have　ever　visited。　　Daniel　Boone　lies　there。　　He　was　the　first　white　man　who　settled　in　Kentucky；　or　rather；　perhaps；　the　first　who　entered　Kentucky　with　a　view　to　a　white　man's　settlement。　　Such　frontier　men　as　was　Daniel　Boone　never　remained　long　contented　with　the　spots　they　opened。　　As　soon　as　he　had　left　his　mark　in　that　territory　he　went　again　farther　west；　over　the　big　rivers　into　Missouri；　and　there　he　died。　　But　the　men　of　Kentucky　are　proud　of　Daniel　Boone；　and　so　they　have　buried　him　in　the　loveliest　spot　they　could　select；　immediately　over　the　river。　Frankfort　is　worth　a　visit；　if　only　that　this　grave　and　graveyard　may　be　seen。　　The　legislature　of　the　State　was　not　sitting　when　I　was　there；　and　the　grass　was　growing　in　the　streets。　Louisville　is　the　commercial　city　of　the　State；　and　stands　on　the　Ohio。　　It　is　another　great　town；　like　all　the　others；　built　with　high　stores；　and　great　houses　and　stone…faced　blocks。　　I　have　no　doubt　that　all　the　building　speculations　have　been　failures；　and　that　the　men　engaged　in　them　were　all　ruined。　　But　there；　as　the　result　of　their　labor；　stands　a　fair　great　city　on　the　southern　banks　of　the　Ohio。　　Here　General　Buell　held　his　headquarters；　but　his　army　lay　at　a　distance。　　On　my　return　from　the　West　I　visited　one　of　the　camps　of　this　army；　and　will　speak　of　it　as　I　speak　of　my　backward　journey。　　I　had　already　at　this　time　begun　to　conceive　an　opinion　that　the　armies　in　Kentucky　and　in　Missouri　would　do　at　any　rate　as　much　for　the　Northern　cause　as　that　of　the　Potomac；　of　which　so　much　more　had　been　heard　in　England。　While　I　was　at　Louisville　the　Ohio　was　flooded。　　It　had　begun　to　rise　when　I　was　at　Cincinnati；　and　since　then　had　gone　on　increasing　hourly；　rising　inch　by　inch　up　into　the　towns　upon　its　bank。　　I　visited　two　suburbs　of　Louisville；　both　of　which　were　submerged；　as　to　the　streets　and　ground　floors　of　the　houses。　　At　Shipping　Port；　one　of　these