defeated and repulsed。
Maclean； in his turn； invaded the estate of the Macneils； took the
castle of Brecacig； and conquered the Isle of Barra； which he held
for seven years； and then restored it to the heirs。
CASTLE OF COL
From Grissipol； Mr。 Maclean conducted us to his father's seat； a
neat new house； erected near the old castle； I think； by the last
proprietor。 Here we were allowed to take our station； and lived
very commodiously； while we waited for moderate weather and a fair
wind； which we did not so soon obtain； but we had time to get some
information of the present state of Col； partly by inquiry； and
partly by occasional excursions。
Col is computed to be thirteen miles in length； and three in
breadth。 Both the ends are the property of the Duke of Argyle； but
the middle belongs to Maclean； who is called Col； as the only
Laird。
Col is not properly rocky； it is rather one continued rock； of a
surface much diversified with protuberances； and covered with a
thin layer of earth； which is often broken； and discovers the
stone。 Such a soil is not for plants that strike deep roots； and
perhaps in the whole Island nothing has ever yet grown to the
height of a table。 The uncultivated parts are clothed with heath；
among which industry has interspersed spots of grass and corn； but
no attempt has yet been made to raise a tree。 Young Col； who has a
very laudable desire of improving his patrimony； purposes some time
to plant an orchard； which； if it be sheltered by a wall； may
perhaps succeed。 He has introduced the culture of turnips； of
which he has a field； where the whole work was performed by his own
hand。 His intention is to provide food for his cattle in the
winter。 This innovation was considered by Mr。 Macsweyn as the idle
project of a young head； heated with English fancies； but he has
now found that turnips will really grow； and that hungry sheep and
cows will really eat them。
By such acquisitions as these； the Hebrides may in time rise above
their annual distress。 Wherever heath will grow； there is reason
to think something better may draw nourishment； and by trying the
production of other places； plants will be found suitable to every
soil。
Col has many lochs； some of which have trouts and eels； and others
have never yet been stocked； another proof of the negligence of the
Islanders； who might take fish in the inland waters； when they
cannot go to sea。
Their quadrupeds are horses； cows； sheep； and goats。 They have
neither deer； hares； nor rabbits。 They have no vermin； except
rats； which have been lately brought thither by sea； as to other
places； and are free from serpents； frogs； and toads。
The harvest in Col； and in Lewis； is ripe sooner than in Sky； and
the winter in Col is never cold； but very tempestuous。 I know not
that I ever heard the wind so loud in any other place； and Mr。
Boswell observed； that its noise was all its own； for there were no
trees to increase it。
Noise is not the worst effect of the tempests； for they have thrown
the sand from the shore over a considerable part of the land； and
it is said still to encroach and destroy more and more pasture； but
I am not of opinion； that by any surveys or landmarks； its limits
have been ever fixed； or its progression ascertained。 If one man
has confidence enough to say； that it advances； nobody can bring
any proof to support him in denying it。 The reason why it is not
spread to a greater extent； seems to be； that the wind and rain
come almost together； and that it is made close and heavy by the
wet before the storms can put it in motion。 So thick is the bed；
and so small the particles； that if a traveller should be caught by
a sudden gust in dry weather； he would find it very difficult to
escape with life。
For natural curiosities； I was shown only two great masses of
stone； which lie loose upon the ground； one on the top of a hill；
and the other at a small distance from the bottom。 They certainly
were never put into their present places by human strength or
skill； and though an earthquake might have broken off the lower
stone； and rolled it into the valley； no account can be given of
the other； which lies on the hill； unless； which I forgot to
examine； there be still near it some higher rock； from which it
might be torn。 All nations have a tradition； that their earliest
ancestors were giants； and these stones are said to have been
thrown up and down by a giant and his mistress。 There are so many
more important things； of which human knowledge can give no
account； that it may be forgiven us； if we speculate no longer on
two stones in Col。
This Island is very populous。 About nine…and…twenty years ago； the
fencible men of Col were reckoned one hundred and forty； which is
the sixth of eight hundred and forty； and probably some contrived
to be left out of the list。 The Minister told us； that a few years
ago the inhabitants were eight hundred； between the ages of seven
and of seventy。 Round numbers are seldom exact。 But in this case
the authority is good； and the errour likely to be little。 If to
the eight hundred be added what the laws of computation require；
they will be increased to at least a thousand； and if the
dimensions of the country have been accurately related； every mile
maintains more than twenty…five。
This proportion of habitation is greater than the appearance of the
country seems to admit； for wherever the eye wanders； it sees much
waste and little cultivation。 I am more inclined to extend the
land； of which no measure has ever been taken； than to diminish the
people； who have been really numbered。 Let it be supposed； that a
computed mile contains a mile and a half； as was commonly found
true in the mensuration of the English roads； and we shall then
allot nearly twelve to a mile； which agrees much better with ocular
observation。
Here； as in Sky； and other Islands； are the Laird； the Tacksmen；
and the under tenants。
Mr。 Maclean； the Laird； has very extensive possessions； being
proprietor； not only of far the greater part of Col； but of the
extensive Island of Rum； and a very considerable territory in Mull。
Rum is one of the larger Islands； almost square； and therefore of
great capacity in proportion to its sides。 By the usual method of
estimating computed extent； it may contain more than a hundred and
twenty square miles。
It originally belonged to Clanronald； and was purchased by Col；
who； in some dispute about the bargain； made Clanronald prisoner；
and kept him nine months in confinement。 Its owner represents it
as mountainous； rugged； and barren。 In the hills there are red
deer。 The horses are very small； but of a breed eminent for
beauty。 Col； not long ago； bought one of them from a tenant； who
told him； that as he was of a shape uncommonly elegant； he could
not sell him but at a high price； and that whoever had him should
pay a guinea and a half。
There are said to be in Barra a race of horses yet smaller； of
which the highest is not above thirty…six inches。
The rent of Rum is not great。 Mr。 Maclean declared； that he should
be very rich； if he could set his land at two…pence halfpenny an
acre。 The inhabitants are fifty…eight families； who continued
Papists for some time after the Laird became a Protestant。 Their
adherence to their old religion was strengthened by the countenance
of the Laird's sister； a zealous Romanist； till one Sunday； as they
were going to mass under the conduct of their patroness； Maclean
met them on the way； gave one of them a blow on the head with a
yellow stick； I suppose a cane； for which the Earse had no name；
and drove them to the kirk； from which they have never since
departed。 Since the use of this method of conversion； the
inhabitants of Egg and Canna； who continue Papists； call the
Protestantism of Rum； the religion of the Yellow Stick。
The only Popish Islands are Egg and Canna。 Egg is the principal
Island of a parish； in which； though he has no congregation； the
Protestant Minister resides。 I have heard of nothing curious in
it； but the cave in which a former generation of the Islanders were
smothered by Macleod。
If we had travelled with more leisure； it had not been fit to have
neglected the Popish Islands。 Popery is favourable to ceremony；
and among ignorant nations； ceremony is the only preservative of
tradition。 Since protestantism was extended to the savage parts of
Scotland； it has perhaps been one of the chief labours of the
Ministers to abolish stated observances； because they continued the
remembrance of the former religion。 We therefore who came to hear
old traditions； and see antiquated manners； should probably have
found them amongst the Papists。
Canna； the other Popish Island； belongs to Clanronald。 It is said
not to comprise more than twelve miles of land； and yet maintains
as many inhabitants as Rum。
We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird； without any
of the distresses； which Mr。 Pennant； in a fit of simple credulity；
seems to think almost worthy of an elegy by Ossian。 Wherever we
roved； we were pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects
regarded him。 He did not endeavour to dazzle them by any
magnificence of dress： his only distinction was a feather in his
bonnet； but as soon as he appeared； they forsook their work and
clustered about him： he took them by the hand； and they seemed
mutually delighted。 He has the proper disposition of a Chieftain；
and seems desirous to continue the customs of his house。 The
bagpiper played regularly； when dinner was served； whose person and
dress made a good appearance； and he brought no disgrace upon the
family of Rankin； which has long supplied the Lairds of Col with
hereditary musick。
The Tacksmen of Col seem to live with less dignity and convenience
than those of Sky； where they had good houses； and tables not only
plentiful； but delicate。 In Col only two houses pay the window
tax； for only two have six windows； which； I suppose； are the
Laird's and Mr。 Macsweyn's。
The rents have； till within seven years； been paid in kind； but the
tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price； des