auditor imagine； by the help of Caledonian bigotry； that he has
formerly heard the whole。
I asked a very learned Minister in Sky； who had used all arts to
make me believe the genuineness of the book； whether at last he
believed it himself？ but he would not answer。 He wished me to be
deceived； for the honour of his country； but would not directly and
formally deceive me。 Yet has this man's testimony been publickly
produced； as of one that held Fingal to be the work of Ossian。
It is said； that some men of integrity profess to have heard parts
of it； but they all heard them when they were boys； and it was
never said that any of them could recite six lines。 They remember
names； and perhaps some proverbial sentiments； and； having no
distinct ideas； coin a resemblance without an original。 The
persuasion of the Scots； however； is far from universal； and in a
question so capable of proof； why should doubt be suffered to
continue？ The editor has been heard to say； that part of the poem
was received by him； in the Saxon character。 He has then found； by
some peculiar fortune； an unwritten language； written in a
character which the natives probably never beheld。
I have yet supposed no imposture but in the publisher； yet I am far
from certainty； that some translations have not been lately made；
that may now be obtruded as parts of the original work。 Credulity
on one part is a strong temptation to deceit on the other；
especially to deceit of which no personal injury is the
consequence； and which flatters the author with his own ingenuity。
The Scots have something to plead for their easy reception of an
improbable fiction； they are seduced by their fondness for their
supposed ancestors。 A Scotchman must be a very sturdy moralist；
who does not love Scotland better than truth： he will always love
it better than inquiry； and if falsehood flatters his vanity； will
not be very diligent to detect it。 Neither ought the English to be
much influenced by Scotch authority； for of the past and present
state of the whole Earse nation； the Lowlanders are at least as
ignorant as ourselves。 To be ignorant is painful； but it is
dangerous to quiet our uneasiness by the delusive opiate of hasty
persuasion。
But this is the age； in which those who could not read； have been
supposed to write； in which the giants of antiquated romance have
been exhibited as realities。 If we know little of the ancient
Highlanders； let us not fill the vacuity with Ossian。 If we had
not searched the Magellanick regions； let us however forbear to
people them with Patagons。
Having waited some days at Armidel； we were flattered at last with
a wind that promised to convey us to Mull。 We went on board a boat
that was taking in kelp； and left the Isle of Sky behind us。 We
were doomed to experience； like others； the danger of trusting to
the wind； which blew against us； in a short time； with such
violence； that we； being no seasoned sailors； were willing to call
it a tempest。 I was sea…sick and lay down。 Mr。 Boswell kept the
deck。 The master knew not well whither to go； and our difficulties
might perhaps have filled a very pathetick page； had not Mr。
Maclean of Col； who； with every other qualification which insular
life requires； is a very active and skilful mariner； piloted us
safe into his own harbour。
COL
In the morning we found ourselves under the Isle of Col； where we
landed； and passed the first day and night with Captain Maclean； a
gentleman who has lived some time in the East Indies； but having
dethroned no Nabob； is not too rich to settle in own country。
Next day the wind was fair； and we might have had an easy passage
to Mull； but having； contrarily to our own intention； landed upon a
new Island； we would not leave it wholly unexamined。 We therefore
suffered the vessel to depart without us； and trusted the skies for
another wind。
Mr。 Maclean of Col； having a very numerous family； has； for some
time past； resided at Aberdeen； that he may superintend their
education； and leaves the young gentleman； our friend； to govern
his dominions； with the full power of a Highland Chief。 By the
absence of the Laird's family； our entertainment was made more
difficult； because the house was in a great degree disfurnished；
but young Col's kindness and activity supplied all defects； and
procured us more than sufficient accommodation。
Here I first mounted a little Highland steed； and if there had been
many spectators； should have been somewhat ashamed of my figure in
the march。 The horses of the Islands； as of other barren
countries； are very low： they are indeed musculous and strong；
beyond what their size gives reason for expecting； but a bulky man
upon one of their backs makes a very disproportionate appearance。
From the habitation of Captain Maclean； we went to Grissipol； but
called by the way on Mr。 Hector Maclean； the Minister of Col； whom
we found in a hut； that is； a house of only one floor； but with
windows and chimney； and not inelegantly furnished。 Mr。 Maclean
has the reputation of great learning： he is seventy…seven years
old； but not infirm； with a look of venerable dignity； excelling
what I remember in any other man。
His conversation was not unsuitable to his appearance。 I lost some
of his good…will； by treating a heretical writer with more regard
than； in his opinion； a heretick could deserve。 I honoured his
orthodoxy； and did not much censure his asperity。 A man who has
settled his opinions； does not love to have the tranquillity of his
conviction disturbed； and at seventy…seven it is time to be in
earnest。
Mention was made of the Earse translation of the New Testament；
which has been lately published； and of which the learned Mr。
Macqueen of Sky spoke with commendation； but Mr。 Maclean said he
did not use it； because he could make the text more intelligible to
his auditors by an extemporary version。 From this I inferred； that
the language of the translation was not the language of the Isle of
Col。
He has no publick edifice for the exercise of his ministry； and can
officiate to no greater number； than a room can contain； and the
room of a hut is not very large。 This is all the opportunity of
worship that is now granted to the inhabitants of the Island； some
of whom must travel thither perhaps ten miles。 Two chapels were
erected by their ancestors； of which I saw the skeletons； which now
stand faithful witnesses of the triumph of the Reformation。
The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety： there is
likewise a want of Ministers。 A parish often contains more Islands
than one； and each Island can have the Minister only in its own
turn。 At Raasa they had； I think； a right to service only every
third Sunday。 All the provision made by the present ecclesiastical
constitution； for the inhabitants of about a hundred square miles；
is a prayer and sermon in a little room； once in three weeks： and
even this parsimonious distribution is at the mercy of the weather；
and in those Islands where the Minister does not reside； it is
impossible to tell how many weeks or months may pass without any
publick exercise of religion。
GRISSIPOL IN COL
After a short conversation with Mr。 Maclean； we went on to
Grissipol； a house and farm tenanted by Mr。 Macsweyn； where I saw
more of the ancient life of a Highlander； than I had yet found。
Mrs。 Macsweyn could speak no English； and had never seen any other
places than the Islands of Sky； Mull； and Col： but she was
hospitable and good…humoured； and spread her table with sufficient
liberality。 We found tea here； as in every other place； but our
spoons were of horn。
The house of Grissipol stands by a brook very clear and quick；
which is； I suppose； one of the most copious streams in the Island。
This place was the scene of an action； much celebrated in the
traditional history of Col； but which probably no two relaters will
tell alike。
Some time； in the obscure ages； Macneil of Barra married the Lady
Maclean； who had the Isle of Col for her jointure。 Whether Macneil
detained Col； when the widow was dead； or whether she lived so long
as to make her heirs impatient； is perhaps not now known。 The
younger son； called John Gerves； or John the Giant； a man of great
strength who was then in Ireland； either for safety； or for
education； dreamed of recovering his inheritance； and getting some
adventurers together； which； in those unsettled times； was not hard
to do； invaded Col。 He was driven away； but was not discouraged；
and collecting new followers； in three years came again with fifty
men。 In his way he stopped at Artorinish in Morvern； where his
uncle was prisoner to Macleod； and was then with his enemies in a
tent。 Maclean took with him only one servant； whom he ordered to
stay at the outside； and where he should see the tent pressed
outwards； to strike with his dirk； it being the intention of
Maclean； as any man provoked him； to lay hands upon him； and push
him back。 He entered the tent alone； with his Lochabar…axe in his
hand； and struck such terror into the whole assembly； that they
dismissed his uncle。
When he landed at Col； he saw the sentinel； who kept watch towards
the sea； running off to Grissipol； to give Macneil； who was there
with a hundred and twenty men； an account of the invasion。 He told
Macgill； one of his followers； that if he intercepted that
dangerous intelligence； by catching the courier； he would give him
certain lands in Mull。 Upon this promise； Macgill pursued the
messenger； and either killed； or stopped him； and his posterity；
till very lately； held the lands in Mull。
The alarm being thus prevented； he came unexpectedly upon Macneil。
Chiefs were in those days never wholly unprovided for an enemy。 A
fight ensued； in which one of their followers is said to have given
an extraordinary proof of activity； by bounding backwards over the
brook of Grissipol。 Macneil being killed； and many of his clan
destroyed； Maclean took possession of the Island； which the
Macneils attempted to conquer by another invasion； but were
defeated and repulsed。
Maclean； in his turn； invaded the estate of the Macne