Americans don't know anything。 There must be some way of dampening the
stove； and if there isn't； I'd rather suffocate than give myself away。〃
Mrs。 March ran and opened the window； while her husband carefully
examined the stove at every point； and explored the pipe for the damper
in vain。 〃Can't you find it？〃 The night wind came in raw and damp； and
threatened to blow their lamp out； and she was obliged to shut the
window。
〃Not a sign of it。 I will go down and ask the landlord in strict
confidence how they dampen their stoves in Ansbach。〃
〃Well； if you must。 It's getting hotter every moment。〃 She followed him
timorously into the corridor； lit by a hanging lamp； turned low for the
night。
He looked at his watch； it was eleven o'clock。 〃I'm afraid they're all
in bed。〃
〃Yes； you mustn't go！ We must try to find out for ourselves。 What can
that door be for？〃
It was a low iron door； half the height of a man； in the wall near their
room； and it yielded to his pull。 〃Get a candle；〃 he whispered； and when
she brought it； he stooped to enter the doorway。
〃Oh； do you think you'd better？〃 she hesitated。
〃You can come； too； if you're afraid。 You've always said you wanted to
die with me。〃
〃Well。 But you go first。〃
He disappeared within； and then came back to the doorway。 〃Just come in
here； a moment。〃 She found herself in a sort of antechamber； half the
height of her own room； and following his gesture she looked down where
in one corner some crouching monster seemed showing its fiery teeth in a
grin of derision。 This grin was the damper of their stove； and this was
where the maid had kindled the fire which had been roasting them alive；
and was still joyously chuckling to itself。 〃I think that Munich man was
wrong。 I don't believe we beat the Germans in anything。 There isn't a
hotel in the United States where the stoves have no front doors； and
every one of them has the space of a good…sized flat given up to the
convenience of kindling a fire in it。〃
L。
After a red sunset of shameless duplicity March was awakened to a rainy
morning by the clinking of cavalry hoofs on the pavement of the long…
irregular square before the hotel； and he hurried out to see the passing
of the soldiers on their way to the manoeuvres。 They were troops of all
arms； but mainly infantry； and as they stumped heavily through the groups
of apathetic citizens in their mud…splashed boots； they took the steady
downpour on their dripping helmets。 Some of them were smoking； but none
smiling； except one gay fellow who made a joke to a serving…maid on the
sidewalk。 An old officer halted his staff to scold a citizen who had
given him a mistaken direction。 The shame of the erring man was great；
and the pride of a fellow…citizen who corrected him was not less； though
the arrogant brute before whom they both cringed used them with equal
scorn； the younger officers listened indifferently round on horseback
behind the glitter of their eyeglasses； and one of them amused himself by
turning the silver bangles on his wrist。
Then the files of soldier slaves passed on； and March crossed the bridge
spanning the gardens in what had been the city moat； and found his way to
the market…place； under the walls of the old Gothic church of St。
Gumpertus。 The market； which spread pretty well over the square； seemed
to be also a fair； with peasants' clothes and local pottery for sale；
as well as fruits and vegetables； and large baskets of flowers； with old
women squatting before them。 It was all as picturesque as the markets
used to be in Montreal and Quebec； and in a cloudy memory of his wedding
journey long before； he bought so lavishly of the flowers to carry back
to his wife that a little girl； who saw his arm…load from her window as
he returned； laughed at him； and then drew shyly back。 Her laugh
reminded him how many happy children he had seen in Germany； and how
freely they seemed to play everywhere； with no one to make them afraid。
When they grow up the women laugh as little as the men； whose rude toil
the soldiering leaves them to。
He got home with his flowers； and his wife took them absently； and made
him join her in watching the sight which had fascinated her in the street
under their windows。 A slender girl； with a waist as slim as a corseted
officer's； from time to time came out of the house across the way to the
firewood which had been thrown from a wagon upon the sidewalk there。
Each time she embraced several of the heavy four…foot logs and
disappeared with them in…doors。 Once she paused from her work to joke
with a well…dressed man who came by； and seemed to find nothing odd in
her work； some gentlemen lounging at the window over head watched her
with no apparent sense of anomaly。
〃What do you think of that？〃 asked Mrs。 March。 〃I think it's good
exercise for the girl； and I should like to recommend it to those fat
fellows at the window。 I suppose she'll saw the wood in the cellar； and
then lug it up stairs； and pile it up in the stoves' dressing…rooms。〃
〃Don't laugh！ It's too disgraceful。〃
〃Well； I don't know！ If you like； I'll offer these gentlemen across the
way your opinion of it in the language of Goethe and Schiller。〃
〃I wish you'd offer my opinion of them。 They've been staring in here
with an opera…glass。〃
〃Ah； that's a different affair。 There isn't much going on in Ansbach；
and they have to make the most of it。〃
The lower casements of the houses were furnished with mirrors set at
right angles with them； and nothing which went on in the streets was
lost。 Some of the streets were long and straight； and at rare moments
they lay full of sun。 At such times the Marches were puzzled by the
sight of citizens carrying open umbrellas； and they wondered if they had
forgotten to put them down； or thought it not worth while in the brief
respites from the rain； or were profiting by such rare occasions to dry
them； and some other sights remained baffling to the last。 Once a man
with his hands pinioned before him； and a gendarme marching stolidly
after him with his musket on his shoulder； passed under their windows；
but who he was； or what he； had done； or was to suffer； they never knew。
Another time a pair went by on the way to the railway station： a young
man carrying an umbrella under his arm； and a very decent…looking old
woman lugging a heavy carpet bag； who left them to the lasting question
whether she was the young man's servant in her best clothes； or merely
his mother。
Women do not do everything in Ansbach； however； the sacristans being men；
as the Marches found when they went to complete their impression of the
courtly past of the city by visiting the funeral chapel of the margraves
in the crypt of St。 Johannis Church。 In the little ex…margravely capital
there was something of the neighborly interest in the curiosity of
strangers which endears Italian witness。 The white…haired street…sweeper
of Ansbach； who willingly left his broom to guide them to the house of
the sacristan； might have been a street…sweeper in Vicenza； and the old
sacristan； when he put his velvet skull…cap out of an upper window and
professed his willingness to show them the chapel； disappointed them by
saying 〃Gleich！〃 instead of 〃Subito！〃 The architecture of the houses was
a party to the illusion。 St。 Johannis； like the older church of St。
Gumpertus； is Gothic； with the two unequal towers which seem distinctive
of Ansbach； at the St。 Gumpertus end of the place where they both stand
the dwellings are Gothic too； and might be in Hamburg； but at the St。
Johannis end they seem to have felt the exotic spirit of the court； and
are of a sort of Teutonized renaissance。
The rococo margraves and margravines used of course to worship in St。
Johannis Church。 Now they all； such as did not marry abroad； lie in the
crypt of the church； in caskets of bronze and copper and marble； with
draperies of black samite； more and more funereally vainglorious to the
last。 Their courtly coffins are ranged in a kind of hemicycle； with the
little coffins of the children that died before they came to the
knowledge of their greatness。 On one of these a kneeling figurine in
bronze holds up the effigy of the child within； on another the epitaph
plays tenderly with the fate of a little princess； who died in her first
year。
In the Rose…month was this sweet Rose taken。
For the Rose…kind hath she earth forsaken。
The Princess is the Rose； that here no longer blows。
From the stem by death's hand rudely shaken。
Then rest in the Rose…house。
Little Princess…Rosebud dear！
There life's Rose shall bloom again
In Heaven's sunshine clear。
While March struggled to get this into English words； two German ladies；
who had made themselves of his party； passed reverently away and left him
to pay the sacristan alone。
〃That is all right；〃 he said； when he came out。 〃I think we got the most
value； and they didn't look as if they could afford it so well； though
you never can tell； here。 These ladies may be the highest kind of
highhotes practising a praiseworthy economy。 I hope the lesson won't be
lost on us。 They have saved enough by us for their coffee at the
Orangery。 Let us go and have a little willow…leaf tea！〃
The Orangery perpetually lured them by what it had kept of the days when
an Orangery was essential to the self…respect of every sovereign prince；
and of so many private gentlemen。 On their way they always passed the
statue of Count Platen； the dull poet whom Heine's hate would have
delivered so cruelly over to an immortality of contempt； but who stands
there near the Schloss in a grass…plot prettily planted with flowers； and
ignores his brilliant enemy in the comfortable durability of bronze； and
there always awaited them in the old pleasaunce the pathos of Kaspar
Hauser's fate； which his murder affixes to it with a red stain。
After their cups of willow leaves at the caf？they went up into that nook
of the plantation where the simple shaft of church…warden's Gothic
commemorates the assassination on the spot where it befell。 Here the
hapl