length under a cloister； or portico； which is now indeed frequently
broken； because the new houses have another form； but seems to have
been uniformly continued in the old city。
FORES。 CALDER。 FORT GEORGE
We went forwards the same day to Fores； the town to which Macbeth
was travelling； when he met the weird sisters in his way。 This to
an Englishman is classic ground。 Our imaginations were heated； and
our thoughts recalled to their old amusements。
We had now a prelude to the Highlands。 We began to leave fertility
and culture behind us； and saw for a great length of road nothing
but heath； yet at Fochabars； a seat belonging to the duke of
Gordon； there is an orchard； which in Scotland I had never seen
before； with some timber trees； and a plantation of oaks。
At Fores we found good accommodation； but nothing worthy of
particular remark； and next morning entered upon the road； on which
Macbeth heard the fatal prediction； but we travelled on not
interrupted by promises of kingdoms； and came to Nairn； a royal
burgh； which； if once it flourished； is now in a state of miserable
decay； but I know not whether its chief annual magistrate has not
still the title of Lord Provost。
At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands； for here I first
saw peat fires； and first heard the Erse language。 We had no
motive to stay longer than to breakfast； and went forward to the
house of Mr。 Macaulay； the minister who published an account of St。
Kilda； and by his direction visited Calder Castle； from which
Macbeth drew his second title。 It has been formerly a place of
strength。 The draw…bridge is still to be seen； but the moat is now
dry。 The tower is very ancient： Its walls are of great thickness；
arched on the top with stone； and surrounded with battlements。 The
rest of the house is later； though far from modern。
We were favoured by a gentleman； who lives in the castle； with a
letter to one of the officers at Fort George； which being the most
regular fortification in the island； well deserves the notice of a
traveller； who has never travelled before。 We went thither next
day； found a very kind reception； were led round the works by a
gentleman； who explained the use of every part； and entertained by
Sir Eyre Coote； the governour； with such elegance of conversation
as left us no attention to the delicacies of his table。
Of Fort George I shall not attempt to give any account。 I cannot
delineate it scientifically； and a loose and popular description is
of use only when the imagination is to be amused。 There was every
where an appearance of the utmost neatness and regularity。 But my
suffrage is of little value； because this and Fort Augustus are the
only garrisons that I ever saw。
We did not regret the time spent at the fort； though in consequence
of our delay we came somewhat late to Inverness； the town which may
properly be called the capital of the Highlands。 Hither the
inhabitants of the inland parts come to be supplied with what they
cannot make for themselves： Hither the young nymphs of the
mountains and valleys are sent for education； and as far as my
observation has reached； are not sent in vain。
INVERNESS
Inverness was the last place which had a regular communication by
high roads with the southern counties。 All the ways beyond it
have； I believe； been made by the soldiers in this century。 At
Inverness therefore Cromwell； when he subdued Scotland； stationed a
garrison； as at the boundary of the Highlands。 The soldiers seem
to have incorporated afterwards with the inhabitants； and to have
peopled the place with an English race； for the language of this
town has been long considered as peculiarly elegant。
Here is a castle； called the castle of Macbeth； the walls of which
are yet standing。 It was no very capacious edifice； but stands
upon a rock so high and steep； that I think it was once not
accessible； but by the help of ladders； or a bridge。 Over against
it； on another hill； was a fort built by Cromwell； now totally
demolished； for no faction of Scotland loved the name of Cromwell；
or had any desire to continue his memory。
Yet what the Romans did to other nations； was in a great degree
done by Cromwell to the Scots； he civilized them by conquest； and
introduced by useful violence the arts of peace。 I was told at
Aberdeen that the people learned from Cromwell's soldiers to make
shoes and to plant kail。
How they lived without kail； it is not easy to guess： They
cultivate hardly any other plant for common tables； and when they
had not kail they probably had nothing。 The numbers that go
barefoot are still sufficient to shew that shoes may be spared：
They are not yet considered as necessaries of life； for tall boys；
not otherwise meanly dressed； run without them in the streets； and
in the islands the sons of gentlemen pass several of their first
years with naked feet。
I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have attained
the liberal； without the manual arts； to have excelled in
ornamental knowledge； and to have wanted not only the elegancies；
but the conveniences of common life。 Literature soon after its
revival found its way to Scotland； and from the middle of the
sixteenth century； almost to the middle of the seventeenth； the
politer studies were very diligently pursued。 The Latin poetry of
Deliciae Poetarum Scotorum would have done honour to any nation； at
least till the publication of May's Supplement the English had very
little to oppose。
Yet men thus ingenious and inquisitive were content to live in
total ignorance of the trades by which human wants are supplied；
and to supply them by the grossest means。 Till the Union made them
acquainted with English manners； the culture of their lands was
unskilful； and their domestick life unformed； their tables were
coarse as the feasts of Eskimeaux； and their houses filthy as the
cottages of Hottentots。
Since they have known that their condition was capable of
improvement； their progress in useful knowledge has been rapid and
uniform。 What remains to be done they will quickly do； and then
wonder； like me； why that which was so necessary and so easy was so
long delayed。 But they must be for ever content to owe to the
English that elegance and culture； which； if they had been vigilant
and active； perhaps the English might have owed to them。
Here the appearance of life began to alter。 I had seen a few women
with plaids at Aberdeen； but at Inverness the Highland manners are
common。 There is I think a kirk； in which only the Erse language
is used。 There is likewise an English chapel； but meanly built；
where on Sunday we saw a very decent congregation。
We were now to bid farewel to the luxury of travelling； and to
enter a country upon which perhaps no wheel has ever rolled。 We
could indeed have used our post…chaise one day longer； along the
military road to Fort Augustus； but we could have hired no horses
beyond Inverness； and we were not so sparing of ourselves； as to
lead them； merely that we might have one day longer the indulgence
of a carriage。
At Inverness therefore we procured three horses for ourselves and a
servant； and one more for our baggage； which was no very heavy
load。 We found in the course of our journey the convenience of
having disencumbered ourselves； by laying aside whatever we could
spare； for it is not to be imagined without experience； how in
climbing crags； and treading bogs； and winding through narrow and
obstructed passages； a little bulk will hinder； and a little weight
will burthen； or how often a man that has pleased himself at home
with his own resolution； will； in the hour of darkness and fatigue；
be content to leave behind him every thing but himself。
LOUGH NESS
We took two Highlanders to run beside us； partly to shew us the
way； and partly to take back from the sea…side the horses； of which
they were the owners。 One of them was a man of great liveliness
and activity； of whom his companion said； that he would tire any
horse in Inverness。 Both of them were civil and ready…handed。
Civility seems part of the national character of Highlanders。
Every chieftain is a monarch； and politeness； the natural product
of royal government； is diffused from the laird through the whole
clan。 But they are not commonly dexterous： their narrowness of
life confines them to a few operations； and they are accustomed to
endure little wants more than to remove them。
We mounted our steeds on the thirtieth of August； and directed our
guides to conduct us to Fort Augustus。 It is built at the head of
Lough Ness； of which Inverness stands at the outlet。 The way
between them has been cut by the soldiers； and the greater part of
it runs along a rock； levelled with great labour and exactness；
near the water…side。
Most of this day's journey was very pleasant。 The day； though
bright； was not hot； and the appearance of the country； if I had
not seen the Peak； would have been wholly new。 We went upon a
surface so hard and level； that we had little care to hold the
bridle； and were therefore at full leisure for contemplation。 On
the left were high and steep rocks shaded with birch； the hardy
native of the North； and covered with fern or heath。 On the right
the limpid waters of Lough Ness were beating their bank； and waving
their surface by a gentle agitation。 Beyond them were rocks
sometimes covered with verdure； and sometimes towering in horrid
nakedness。 Now and then we espied a little cornfield； which served
to impress more strongly the general barrenness。
Lough Ness is about twenty…four miles long； and from one mile to
two miles broad。 It is remarkable that Boethius； in his
description of Scotland； gives it twelve miles of breadth。 When
historians or geographers exhibit false accounts of places far
distant； they may be forgiven； because they can tell but what they
are told； and that their accounts exceed the truth may be justly
supposed； because most men exaggerate to others； if not to
themselves： but Boethius lived at no great distance； if he never
saw the lake； he must have been very incurious； and if he had seen
it； his veracity