firm and smooth road； made by the soldiers； on which we travelled
with great security； busied with contemplating the scene about us。
The night came on while we had yet a great part of the way to go；
though not so dark； but that we could discern the cataracts which
poured down the hills； on one side； and fell into one general
channel that ran with great violence on the other。 The wind was
loud； the rain was heavy； and the whistling of the blast； the fall
of the shower； the rush of the cataracts； and the roar of the
torrent； made a nobler chorus of the rough musick of nature than it
had ever been my chance to hear before。 The streams； which ran
cross the way from the hills to the main current； were so frequent；
that after a while I began to count them； and； in ten miles；
reckoned fifty…five； probably missing some； and having let some
pass before they forced themselves upon my notice。 At last we came
to Inverary； where we found an inn； not only commodious； but
magnificent。
The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end。 Mr。 Boswell
had the honour of being known to the Duke of Argyle； by whom we
were very kindly entertained at his splendid seat； and supplied
with conveniences for surveying his spacious park and rising
forests。
After two days stay at Inverary we proceeded Southward over
Glencroe； a black and dreary region； now made easily passable by a
military road； which rises from either end of the glen by an
acclivity not dangerously steep； but sufficiently laborious。 In
the middle； at the top of the hill； is a seat with this
inscription； 'Rest； and be thankful。' Stones were placed to mark
the distances； which the inhabitants have taken away； resolved；
they said； 'to have no new miles。'
In this rainy season the hills streamed with waterfalls； which；
crossing the way； formed currents on the other side； that ran in
contrary directions as they fell to the north or south of the
summit。 Being； by the favour of the Duke； well mounted； I went up
and down the hill with great convenience。
From Glencroe we passed through a pleasant country to the banks of
Loch Lomond； and were received at the house of Sir James Colquhoun；
who is owner of almost all the thirty islands of the Loch； which we
went in a boat next morning to survey。 The heaviness of the rain
shortened our voyage； but we landed on one island planted with yew；
and stocked with deer； and on another containing perhaps not more
than half an acre； remarkable for the ruins of an old castle； on
which the osprey builds her annual nest。 Had Loch Lomond been in a
happier climate； it would have been the boast of wealth and vanity
to own one of the little spots which it incloses； and to have
employed upon it all the arts of embellishment。 But as it is； the
islets； which court the gazer at a distance； disgust him at his
approach； when he finds； instead of soft lawns； and shady thickets；
nothing more than uncultivated ruggedness。
Where the Loch discharges itself into a river； called the Leven； we
passed a night with Mr。 Smollet； a relation of Doctor Smollet； to
whose memory he has raised an obelisk on the bank near the house in
which he was born。 The civility and respect which we found at
every place； it is ungrateful to omit； and tedious to repeat。 Here
we were met by a post…chaise； that conveyed us to Glasgow。
To describe a city so much frequented as Glasgow； is unnecessary。
The prosperity of its commerce appears by the greatness of many
private houses； and a general appearance of wealth。 It is the only
episcopal city whose cathedral was left standing in the rage of
Reformation。 It is now divided into many separate places of
worship； which； taken all together； compose a great pile； that had
been some centuries in building； but was never finished； for the
change of religion intercepted its progress； before the cross isle
was added； which seems essential to a Gothick cathedral。
The college has not had a sufficient share of the increasing
magnificence of the place。 The session was begun； for it commences
on the tenth of October and continues to the tenth of June； but the
students appeared not numerous； being； I suppose； not yet returned
from their several homes。 The division of the academical year into
one session； and one recess； seems to me better accommodated to the
present state of life； than that variegation of time by terms and
vacations derived from distant centuries； in which it was probably
convenient； and still continued in the English universities。 So
many solid months as the Scotch scheme of education joins together；
allow and encourage a plan for each part of the year； but with us；
he that has settled himself to study in the college is soon tempted
into the country； and he that has adjusted his life in the country；
is summoned back to his college。
Yet when I have allowed to the universities of Scotland a more
rational distribution of time； I have given them； so far as my
inquiries have informed me； all that they can claim。 The students；
for the most part； go thither boys； and depart before they are men；
they carry with them little fundamental knowledge； and therefore
the superstructure cannot be lofty。 The grammar schools are not
generally well supplied； for the character of a school…master being
there less honourable than in England； is seldom accepted by men
who are capable to adorn it； and where the school has been
deficient； the college can effect little。
Men bred in the universities of Scotland cannot be expected to be
often decorated with the splendours of ornamental erudition； but
they obtain a mediocrity of knowledge； between learning and
ignorance； not inadequate to the purposes of common life； which is；
I believe； very widely diffused among them； and which countenanced
in general by a national combination so invidious； that their
friends cannot defend it； and actuated in particulars by a spirit
of enterprise； so vigorous； that their enemies are constrained to
praise it； enables them to find； or to make their way to
employment； riches； and distinction。
From Glasgow we directed our course to Auchinleck； an estate
devolved； through a long series of ancestors； to Mr。 Boswell's
father； the present possessor。 In our way we found several places
remarkable enough in themselves； but already described by those who
viewed them at more leisure； or with much more skill； and stopped
two days at Mr。 Campbell's； a gentleman married to Mr。 Boswell's
sister。
Auchinleck； which signifies a stony field； seems not now to have
any particular claim to its denomination。 It is a district
generally level； and sufficiently fertile； but like all the Western
side of Scotland； incommoded by very frequent rain。 It was； with
the rest of the country； generally naked； till the present
possessor finding； by the growth of some stately trees near his old
castle； that the ground was favourable enough to timber； adorned it
very diligently with annual plantations。
Lord Auchinleck； who is one of the Judges of Scotland； and
therefore not wholly at leisure for domestick business or pleasure；
has yet found time to make improvements in his patrimony。 He has
built a house of hewn stone； very stately； and durable； and has
advanced the value of his lands with great tenderness to his
tenants。
I was； however； less delighted with the elegance of the modern
mansion； than with the sullen dignity of the old castle。 I
clambered with Mr。 Boswell among the ruins； which afford striking
images of ancient life。 It is； like other castles； built upon a
point of rock； and was； I believe； anciently surrounded with a
moat。 There is another rock near it； to which the drawbridge； when
it was let down； is said to have reached。 Here； in the ages of
tumult and rapine； the Laird was surprised and killed by the
neighbouring Chief； who perhaps might have extinguished the family；
had he not in a few days been seized and hanged； together with his
sons； by Douglas； who came with his forces to the relief of
Auchinleck。
At no great distance from the house runs a pleasing brook； by a red
rock； out of which has been hewn a very agreeable and commodious
summer…house； at less expence； as Lord Auchinleck told me； than
would have been required to build a room of the same dimensions。
The rock seems to have no more dampness than any other wall。 Such
opportunities of variety it is judicious not to neglect。
We now returned to Edinburgh； where I passed some days with men of
learning； whose names want no advancement from my commemoration； or
with women of elegance； which perhaps disclaims a pedant's praise。
The conversation of the Scots grows every day less unpleasing to
the English； their peculiarities wear fast away； their dialect is
likely to become in half a century provincial and rustick； even to
themselves。 The great； the learned； the ambitious； and the vain；
all cultivate the English phrase； and the English pronunciation；
and in splendid companies Scotch is not much heard； except now and
then from an old Lady。
There is one subject of philosophical curiosity to be found in
Edinburgh； which no other city has to shew； a college of the deaf
and dumb； who are taught to speak； to read； to write； and to
practice arithmetick； by a gentleman； whose name is Braidwood。 The
number which attends him is； I think； about twelve； which he brings
together into a little school； and instructs according to their
several degrees of proficiency。
I do not mean to mention the instruction of the deaf as new。
Having been first practised upon the son of a constable of Spain；
it was afterwards cultivated with much emulation in England； by
Wallis and Holder； and was lately professed by Mr。 Baker； who once
flattered me with hopes of seeing his method published。 How far
any former teachers have succeeded； it is not easy to know； the
improvement of Mr。 Braidwood's pupils is wonderful。 They not only
speak； write； and understand what is written； but if he that speaks
looks towards them； and modifies his organs by distinct and full
utterance； they know so well what is spoken； that it is an
expression scarcely figurative to say； they hear with the eye。
That any have atta