more the appearance of a barren waste or desert than any district I have
seen。 It nevertheless has occasional oases； with fine grazing lands about
them； and the mountains； which are more broken and detached； have
distinct marks of volcanic origin。 The ranges though short； have generally
the same parallel direction as those further east。 It is the country of the
Papago Indians； a peaceful and friendly tribe； extending down to the Gulf
coast； where they are mixed up somewhat with the Cocopas of the
Colorado。 From Sonoita I explored to the Gulf shore； near the mouth of
Adair Bay。 It was 62 miles； following a dry arroya most of the way； and
the point at which I struck the Gulf was in latitude 31 degrees 36 minutes
34 minutes。 The 〃Bay〃 is about 15 miles across； and from all I could learn；
15 miles long； and represented as having four fathoms of water。 It is
completely encircled by a range of sand hills； reaching north…west to the
Colorado river and south…east as far as the eye could discover。 These
〃sables〃 are probably eighty or ninety miles in extent； by five to ten broad。
〃Notwithstanding it appears to be the most desolate and forlorn…
looking spot for eighty miles around the head of the Gulf； the sand hills
looking like a terrible desert； nature seems even here； where no rain had
fallen for eight months； to have provided for the sustenance of man； one of
the most nutritious and palatable vegetables。
〃East of the Tinaja Alta or high tank range； lie the famous Sierras del
Ajo； now United States territory。 These mountains derive their name from
the vast deposits of red oxide and green carbonate of copper found about
them； and which the Indians have made use of to paint （ajo） themselves
with。 The mines are unquestionably of great value； and must become
important； more particularly from their being situated in the neighborhood
of the contemplated railway。 The tall Cereus Giganteus and Agave
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Americana are found in abundance。 From the latter plant the natives make
the pulque； mezcal and agua…diente； and the petahaya or cereus； produces
a fruit from which is made a very pleasant preserve。 At the Pimo and
Maricopa villages are found wheat； corn； tobaco； and cotton； besides
melons； pumpkins； beans； etc。 The nature of the soil for great distances in
the Gila valley is of a reddish loam； some parts coated with a beautiful
crystallization of salt； a quarter to half an inch thick。 This seems to be
more particularly the case below the Maricopa villages and toward the Rio
Salado。 The cotton； of which I procured specimens； though cultivated by
the Indians in the most primitive manner； exhibited a texture not unlike the
celebrated Sea Island cotton。 Its fibre is exceedingly soft and silky； but not
of the longest staple。 Large tracts of land on the Gila and in other portions
of this district； appear to possess the same properties of soil； and where； I
have no doubt； the finest cotton will soon be extensively raised and
brought to its highest state of perfection by proper cultivation。〃
The climate is thus referred to by Gray：
〃One of the most favorable features upon the route in the vicinity of
the 32nd degree proposed for the Pacific railway is； its accessibility at all
times； admitting of labor being performed in the open air at each season。
The nature of the climate through Texas to the Rio Grande has already
been referred to； and from thence to the Santa Cruz valley half way to the
Colorado； over the elevated plateau of the Sierra Madra； it is equally
salubrious and temperate。 The rainy season falls in the summer months；
and but seldom is snow seen even upon the mountain tops。 Towards the
Colorado river it is much drier and more torrid； but by no means unhealthy；
nor does it prevent out door work the whole of the day during the heated
term of summer。
〃The great riches of the country； however； are a total waste at the
present time； but which the Pacific railroad will at once develop； and make
to itself the foundation of a vast revenue。 I refer to its metallic wealth； the
silver； gold； and copper mines that abound in almost every mountain and
valley； between the Rio Grande and the Gulf of California。
〃The ores of Chihuahua and Sonora ＇now Arizona。 S。 M。＇ are chiefly
sulphuret （lead or iron）； or native silver in porphyritic or stratified
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limestone rocks passing at greater depths into igneous rocks。 From loose
piles lying upon the surface and evidently picked over； I procured
specimens of silvier and copper。 Three samples representing points on the
line of our exploration about equi…distant from each other； viz。： the Rio
Grande； the neighborhood of Tubac； and within 90 miles of the junction of
the Gila and Colorado rivers； were submitted to Dr。 I。 K。 Chilton； of New
York； for analysis。 He found in one sample of lead ore （argentiferous
galena）； by fire assay 71 per cent。 of lead； and the 〃LEAD YIELDED
SILVER EQUIVALENT to 128 ounces； 1 dwt。 to the ton〃 （of 2000
pounds）。
〃In another； he found the lead obtained from it to yield silver in the
proportion of 72 ounces 5 dwts。 to the ton or 2000 pounds。
〃The copper specimen was the red oxide； and yielded as follows：
Copper；。。。。。。。。。。。。 71。80 Iron；。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。 7。84
Oxygen；。。。。。。。。。。。。。12。34 Silicia； Alumina；。。。。8。02
100 parts。
〃The Papagos and Pimas Indians； by proper management； might be
made very useful； in working upon the road where there is not much rock
excavation。 They are unlike the Indians of Texas； or the Apaches； living in
villages and cultivating the soil； besides manufacturing blankets； baskets；
pottery； etc。 Quiet and peaceable； they have no fears except from their
enemies； the Apaches； and are very industrious； much more so than the
lower order of Mexicans； and live far more comfortably。 It is astonishing
with what precision they construct their acequiasirrigating canalssome
of them； the acequias madre； of very large size； and without the use of
levelling apparatus； but simply by the eye。 Their gardens and farms too are
regularly ditched and fenced off into rectangles and circles； with hedges
and trees planted as if done by more enlightened people。〃
The population of the new Territory of Arizona is at present not far
from eight thousand； and is rapidly increasing。 The Mesilla Valley and the
Rio Grande are probably the most thickly populated； containing about five
thousand people。 A majority of the Mesilla inhabitants are Mexicans； but
they will be controlled by the American residents； whose number and
influence is constantly on the increase。 The Santa Cruz Valley； in which
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are situated the towns of Tueson； Tubac； Tumacacari； and the mining
settlement of Sopori and others； is； next to Mesilla； the most thickly settled。
Tueson was formerly a town of three thousand inhabitants； but the
majority have been driven off by the Apache Indians。 It is fast becoming a
thriving American town； and will before long be a place of more
importance than ever before。 Real estate is already held at high rates； and
the erection of buildings shows that American energy is about to change
the face of the last half century。 Tubac had been completely deserted by
the Mexicans。 It has been reoccupied by the Sonora Exploring and Mining
Company； and now boasts a population of several hundred。 The Calabazas
valley is also fast filling up with an American population； and another year
will see the whole centre of the Territory dotted with settlements。 Many of
the fine claims on the San Pedro River have already been located by
emigrants under the general pre…emption law； but until protection is
afforded to the settlers； but little progress will be made in agricultural
pursuits。 The Apache Indian regards the soil as his own； and having
expelled the Spanish and Mexican invader； he feels little inclination to
submit to the American。 A small settlement of Americans is growing up at
Colorado city； opposite Fort Yuma； at the junction of the Gila and
Colorado rivers。 This point is destined to be one of great commercial and
pecuniary importance。 Situated at the present head of navigation； at the
point where the overland mail route crosses the Colorado； and where the
Southern Pacific Railroad must bridge the stream； it is a necessary
stopping place for all travel across the country。 Here are trans