ntoine and the Vielle Rue du Temple； there stood Sainte…Catherine； with its immense cultivated lands； which were terminated only by the wall of Paris。 Between the old and the new Rue du Temple； there was the Temple； a sinister group of towers； lofty； erect； and isolated in the middle of a vast； battlemented enclosure。 Between the Rue Neuve…du… Temple and the Rue Saint…Martin； there was the Abbey of Saint…Martin； in the midst of its gardens； a superb fortified church； whose girdle of towers； whose diadem of bell towers； yielded in force and splendor only to Saint…Germain des Prés。 Between the Rue Saint…Martin and the Rue Saint… Denis； spread the enclosure of the Trinité。
Lastly； between the Rue Saint…Denis； and the Rue Montorgueil； stood the Filles…Dieu。 On one side； the rotting roofs and unpaved enclosure of the Cour des Miracles could be descried。 It was the sole profane ring which was linked to that devout chain of convents。
Finally； the fourth compartment； which stretched itself out in the agglomeration of the roofs on the right bank； and which occupied the western angle of the enclosure； and the banks of the river down stream； was a fresh cluster of palaces and H？tels pressed close about the base of the Louvre。 The old Louvre of Philip Augustus； that immense edifice whose great tower rallied about it three and twenty chief towers； not to reckon the lesser towers； seemed from a distance to be enshrined in the Gothic roofs of the H？tel d'Alen？on； and the Petit…Bourbon。 This hydra of towers； giant guardian of Paris； with its four and twenty heads； always erect； with its monstrous haunches； loaded or scaled with slates； and all streaming with metallic reflections； terminated with wonderful effect the configuration of the Town towards the west。
Thus an immense block； which the Romans called ~iusula~； or island； of bourgeois houses； flanked on the right and the left by two blocks of palaces； crowned； the one by the Louvre； the other by the Tournelles； bordered on the north by a long girdle of abbeys and cultivated enclosures； all amalgamated and melted together in one view； upon these thousands of edifices； whose tiled and slated roofs outlined upon each other so many fantastic chains； the bell towers； tattooed； fluted； and ornamented with twisted bands； of the four and forty churches on the right bank； myriads of cross streets； for boundary on one side； an enclosure of lofty walls with square towers （that of the University had round towers）； on the other； the Seine； cut by bridges； and bearing on its bosom a multitude of boats； behold the Town of Paris in the fifteenth century。
Beyond the walls； several suburban villages pressed close about the gates； but less numerous and more scattered than those of the University。 Behind the Bastille there were twenty hovels clustered round the curious sculptures of the Croix…Faubin and the flying buttresses of the Abbey of Saint… Antoine des Champs； then Popincourt； lost amid wheat fields； then la Courtille； a merry village of wine…shops； the hamlet of Saint…Laurent with its church whose bell tower； from afar； seemed to add itself to the pointed towers of the Porte Saint… Martin； the Faubourg Saint…Denis； with the vast enclosure of Saint…Ladre； beyond the Montmartre Gate； the Grange… Batelière； encircled with white walls； behind it； with its chalky slopes； Montmartre； which had then almost as many churches as windmills； and which has kept only the windmills； for society no longer demands anything but bread for the body。 Lastly； beyond the Louvre； the Faubourg Saint… Honoré； already considerable at that time； could be seen stretching away into the fields； and Petit…Bretagne gleaming green； and the Marché aux Pourceaux spreading abroad； in whose centre swelled the horrible apparatus used for boiling counterfeiters。 Between la Courtille and Saint…Laurent； your eye had already noticed； on the summit of an eminence crouching amid desert plains； a sort of edifice which resembled from a distance a ruined colonnade； mounted upon a basement with its foundation laid bare。 This was neither a Parthenon； nor a temple of the Olympian Jupiter。 It was Montfau？on。
Now； if the enumeration of so many edifices； summary as we have endeavored to make it； has not shattered in the reader's mind the general image of old Paris； as we have constructed it； we will recapitulate it in a few words。 In the centre； the island of the City； resembling as to form an enormous tortoise； and throwing out its bridges with tiles for scales； like legs from beneath its gray shell of roofs。 On the left； the monolithic trapezium； firm； dense； bristling； of the University； on the right； the vast semicircle of the Town； much more intermixed with gardens and monuments。 The three blocks； city； university； and town； marbled with innumerable streets。 Across all； the Seine； 〃foster…mother Seine；〃 as says Father Du Breul； blocked with islands； bridges； and boats。 All about an immense plain； patched with a thousand sorts of cultivated plots； sown with fine villages。 On the left； Issy； Vanvres； Vaugirarde； Montrouge； Gentilly； with its round tower and its square tower； etc。； on the right； twenty others； from Conflans to Ville…l'Evêque。 On the horizon； a border of hills arranged in a circle like the rim of the basin。 Finally； far away to the east； Vincennes； and its seven quadrangular towers to the south； Bicêtre and its pointed turrets； to the north； Saint…Denis and its spire； to the west； Saint Cloud and its donjon keep。 Such was the Paris which the ravens； who lived in 1482； beheld from the summits of the towers of Notre…Dame。
Nevertheless； Voltaire said of this city； that 〃before Louis XIV。； it possessed but four fine monuments〃： the dome of the Sorbonne； the Val…de…Grace； the modern Louvre； and I know not what the fourth wasthe Luxembourg； perhaps。 Fortunately； Voltaire was the author of 〃Candide〃 in spite of this； and in spite of this； he is； among all the men who have followed each other in the long series of humanity； the one who has best possessed the diabolical laugh。 Moreover； this proves that one can be a fine genius； and yet understand nothing of an art to which one does not belong。 Did not Moliere imagine that he was doing Raphael and Michael…Angelo a very great honor； by calling them 〃those Mignards of their age？〃
Let us return to Paris and to the fifteenth century。
It was not then merely a handsome city； it was a homogeneous city； an architectural and historical product of the Middle Ages； a chronicle in stone。 It was a city formed of two layers only； the Romanesque layer and the Gothic layer； for the Roman layer had disappeared long before； with the exception of the Hot Baths of Julian； where it still pierced through the thick crust of the Middle Ages。 As for the Celtic layer； no specimens were any longer to be found； even when sinking wells。
Fifty years later； when the Renaissance began to mingle with this unity which was so severe and yet so varied； the dazzling luxury of its fantasies and systems； its debasements of Roman round arches； Greek columns； and Gothic bases； its sculpture which was so tender and so ideal； its peculiar taste for arabesques and acanthus leaves； its architectural paganism； contemporary with Luther； Paris； was perhaps； still more beautiful； although less harmonious to the eye； and to the thought。
But this splendid moment lasted only for a short time； the Renaissance was not impartial； it did not content itself with building； it wished to destroy； it is true that it required the room。 Thus Gothic Paris was complete only for a moment。 Saint… Jacques de la Boucherie had barely been completed when the demolition of the old Louvre was begun。
After that； the great city became more disfigured every day。 Gothic Paris； beneath which Roman Paris was effaced； was effaced in its turn； but can any one say what Paris has replaced it？
There is the Paris of Catherine de Medicis at the Tuileries；*the Paris of Henri II。； at the H？tel de Ville； two edifices still in fine taste；the Paris of Henri IV。； at the Place Royale： fa？ades of brick with stone corners； and slated roofs； tri…colored houses；the Paris of Louis XIII。； at the Val…de… Grace： a crushed and squat architecture； with vaults like basket…handles； and something indescribably pot…bellied in the column； and thickset in the dome；the Paris of Louis XIV。； in the Invalides： grand； rich； gilded； cold；the Paris of Louis XV。； in Saint…Sulpice： volutes； knots of ribbon； clouds； vermicelli and chiccory leaves； all in stone；the Paris of Louis XVI。； in the Pantheon： Saint Peter of Rome； badly copied （the edifice is awkwardly heaped together； which has not amended its lines）；the Paris of the Republic； in the School of Medicine： a poor Greek and Roman taste； which resembles the Coliseum or the Parthenon as the constitution of the year III。； resembles the laws of Minos；it is called in architecture； 〃the Messidor〃** taste；the Paris of Napoleon in the Place Vendome： this one is sublime； a column of bronze made of cannons；the Paris of the Restoration； at the Bourse： a very white colonnade supporting a very smooth frieze； the whole is square and cost twenty millions。
* We have seen with sorrow mingled with indignation； that it is the intention to increase； to recast； to make over； that is to say； to destroy this admirable palace。 The architects of our day have too heavy a hand to touch these delicate works of the Renaissance。 We still cherish a hope that they will not dare。 Moreover； this demolition of the Tuileries now； would be not only a brutal deed of violence； which would make a drunken vandal blushit would be an act of treason。 The Tuileries is not simply a masterpiece of the art of the sixteenth century； it is a page of the history of the nineteenth。 This palace no longer belongs to the king； but to the people。 Let us leave it as it is。 Our revolution has twice set its seal upon its front。 On one of its two fa？ades； there are the cannon…balls of the 10th of August； on the other； the balls of the 29th of July。 It is sacred。 Paris； April 1； 1831。 （Note to the fifth edition。）
** The tenth month of the French republican calendar； from the 19th of June to the 18th of July。
To each of these characteristic