save Ferdinando； our pilot； but they followed him notwithstanding； and
hunted after him upon the foot with their deer…dogs； and with so main
a cry that all the woods echoed with the shout they made。 But at the
last this poor chased Indian recovered the river side and got upon a
tree； and； as we were coasting； leaped down and swam to the barge half
dead with fear。 But our good hap was that we kept the other old
Indian； which we handfasted to redeem our pilot withal； for； being
natural of those rivers； we assured ourselves that he knew the way
better than any stranger could。 And； indeed； but for this chance； I
think we had never found the way either to Guiana or back to our
ships； for Ferdinando after a few days knew nothing at all； nor which
way to turn； yea； and many times the old man himself was in great
doubt which river to take。 Those people which dwell in these broken
islands and drowned lands are generally called Tivitivas。 There are of
them two sorts； the one called Ciawani； and the other Waraweete。
The great river of Orenoque or Baraquan hath nine branches which fall
out on the north side of his own main mouth。 On the south side it hath
seven other fallings into the sea； so it disemboqueth by sixteen arms
in all； between islands and broken ground； but the islands are very
great； many of them as big as the Isle of Wight； and bigger； and many
less。 From the first branch on the north to the last of the south it
is at least 100 leagues； so as the river's mouth is 300 miles wide at
his entrance into the sea； which I take to be far bigger than that of
Amazons。 All those that inhabit in the mouth of this river upon the
several north branches are these Tivitivas； of which there are two
chief lords which have continual wars one with the other。 The islands
which lie on the right hand are called Pallamos； and the land on the
left； Hororotomaka； and the river by which John Douglas returned
within the land from Amana to Capuri they call Macuri。
These Tivitivas are a very goodly people and very valiant； and have
the most manly speech and most deliberate that ever I heard of what
nation soever。 In the summer they have houses on the ground； as in
other places； in the winter they dwell upon the trees； where they
build very artificial towns and villages； as it is written in the
Spanish story of the West Indies that those people do in the low lands
near the gulf of Uraba。 For between May and September the river of
Orenoque riseth thirty foot upright； and then are those islands
overflown twenty foot high above the level of the ground； saving some
few raised grounds in the middle of them； and for this cause they are
enforced to live in this manner。 They never eat of anything that is
set or sown； and as at home they use neither planting nor other
manurance； so when they come abroad they refuse to feed of aught but
of that which nature without labour bringeth forth。 They use the tops
of palmitos for bread； and kill deer； fish； and porks for the rest of
their sustenance。 They have also many sorts of fruits that grow in the
woods； and great variety of birds and fowls； and if to speak of them
were not tedious and vulgar； surely we saw in those passages of very
rare colours and forms not elsewhere to be found； for as much as I
have either seen or read。
Of these people those that dwell upon the branches of Orenoque； called
Capuri； and Macureo； are for the most part carpenters of canoas； for
they make the most and fairest canoas； and sell them into Guiana for
gold and into Trinidad for tabacco； in the excessive taking whereof
they exceed all nations。 And notwithstanding the moistness of the air
in which they live； the hardness of their diet； and the great labours
they suffer to hunt； fish； and fowl for their living； in all my life；
either in the Indies or in Europe； did I never behold a more goodly or
better…favoured people or a more manly。 They were wont to make war
upon all nations； and especially on the Cannibals； so as none durst
without a good strength trade by those rivers； but of late they are at
peace with their neighbours； all holding the Spaniards for a common
enemy。 When their commanders die they use great lamentation； and when
they think the flesh of their bodies is putrified and fallen from
their bones； then they take up the carcase again and hang it in the
cacique's house that died； and deck his skull with feathers of all
colours； and hang all his gold plates about the bones of this arms；
thighs； and legs。 Those nations which are called Arwacas； which dwell
on the south of Orenoque； of which place and nation our Indian pilot
was； are dispersed in many other places； and do use to beat the bones
of their lords into powder； and their wives and friends drink it all
in their several sorts of drinks。
After we departed from the port of these Ciawani we passed up the
river with the flood and anchored the ebb； and in this sort we went
onward。 The third day that we entered the river； our galley came on
ground； and stuck so fast as we thought that even there our discovery
had ended； and that we must have left four…score and ten of our men to
have inhabited； like rooks upon trees； with those nations。 But the
next morning； after we had cast out all her ballast； with tugging and
hauling to and fro we got her afloat and went on。 At four days' end we
fell into as goodly a river as ever I beheld； which was called the
great Amana； which ran more directly without windings and turnings
than the other。 But soon after the flood of the sea left us； and；
being enforced either by main strength to row against a violent
current； or to return as wise as we went out； we had then no shift but
to persuade the companies that it was but two or three days' work； and
therefore desired them to take pains； every gentleman and others
taking their turns to row； and to spell one the other at the hour's
end。 Every day we passed by goodly branches of rivers； some falling
from the west； others from the east； into Amana； but those I leave to
the description in the chart of discovery； where every one shall be
named with his rising and descent。 When three days more were overgone；
our companies began to despair； the weather being extreme hot； the
river bordered with very high trees that kept away the air； and the
current against us every day stronger than other。 But we evermore
commanded our pilots to promise an end the next day； and used it so
long as we were driven to assure them from four reaches of the river
to three； and so to two； and so to the next reach。 But so long we
laboured that many days were spent； and we driven to draw ourselves to
harder allowance； our bread even at the last； and no drink at all； and
our men and ourselves so wearied and scorched； and doubtful withal
whether we should ever perform it or no； the heat increasing as we
drew towards the line； for we were now in five degrees。
The further we went on； our victual decreasing and the air breeding
great faintness； we grew weaker and weaker； when we had most need of
strength and ability。 For hourly the river ran more violently than
other against us； and the barge； wherries； and ship's boat of Captain
Gifford and Captain Caulfield had spent all their provisions； so as we
were brought into despair and discomfort； had we not persuaded all the
company that it was but only one day's work more to attain the land
where we should be relieved of all we wanted； and if we returned； that
we were sure to starve by the way； and that the world would also laugh
us to scorn。 On the banks of these rivers were divers sorts of fruits
good to eat； flowers and trees of such variety as were sufficient to
make ten volumes of Herbals； we relieved ourselves many times with the
fruits of the country； and sometimes with fowl and fish。 We saw birds
of all colours； some carnation； some crimson； orange…tawny； purple；
watchet （pale blue）； and of all other sorts； both simple and mixed；
and it was unto us a great good…passing of the time to behold them；
besides the relief we found by killing some store of them with our
fowling…pieces； without which； having little or no bread； and less
drink； but only the thick and troubled water of the river； we had been
in a very hard case。
Our old pilot of the Ciawani； whom； as I said before； we took to
redeem Ferdinando； told us； that if we would enter a branch of a river
on the right hand with our barge and wherries； and leave the galley at
anchor the while in the great river； he would bring us to a town of
the Arwacas； where we should find store of bread； hens； fish； and of
the country wine； and persuaded us； that departing from the galley at
noon we might return ere night。 I was very glad to hear this speech；
and presently took my barge； with eight musketeers； Captain Gifford's
wherry； with himself and four musketeers； and Captain Caulfield with
his wherry； and as many； and so we entered the mouth of this river；
and because we were persuaded that it was so near； we took no victual
with us at all。 When we had rowed three hours； we marvelled we saw no
sign of any dwelling； and asked the pilot where the town was； he told
us； a little further。 After three hours more； the sun being almost
set； we began to suspect that he led us that way to betray us； for he
confessed that those Spaniards which fled from Trinidad； and also
those that remained with Carapana in Emeria； were joined together in
some village upon that river。 But when it grew towards night； and we
demanded where the place was； he told us but four reaches more。 When
we had rowed four and four； we saw no sign； and our poor watermen；
even heart…broken and tired； were ready to give up the ghost； for we
had now come from the galley near forty miles。
At the last we determined to hang the pilot； and if we had well known
the way back again by night； he had surely gone。 But our own
necessities pleaded sufficiently for his safety； for it was as dark as
pitch； and the river began so to narrow itself； and the trees to hang
over from side to side； as we were driven with arming swords to cut a
passage through those branches that covered the water。 We were very
desirous to find this town hoping of a feast； because we m